| Erratic temperature swings Most
likely you have air trapped in your cooling system. Air
rises to the top of the cooling system and gets trapped,
causing the cooling system to vapor lock. When the radiator
is made the higher point in the system, the air will escape
into the radiator and it will be vented out through the
radiator cap and the overflow system.
There are a couple of ways to resolve this and free the
air.
-
Free trapped air via the vent plug
-
Fill the system as normal
with your antifreeze mixture. Use a 50-50 mixture of
antifreeze and distilled water. Auto parts stores will
sell in-expensive to determine the concentration of
antifreeze in your system.
-
Find the small threaded
plug with a hex fitting at the top of the water box where
the upper radiator hose enters the engine. Loosen the
fitting to the point where air starts to escape and
inspect the thread sealant – re-apply as needed. Be sure
to run your heater to allow water into the heater core.
- Add antifreeze to replace
the air being expelled through the plug.
- As fluid starts to seep
out of the plug tighten it up, top off the overflow tank,
and you’re done. If you continue to get erratic
temperature readings, or fail to get heat from the heating
vents, re-open the screw and let any residual air to
escape.
- To vent a system in this
method raise the car such that the radiator is higher than
the water box. You can do this through jacks (and
jack-stands, never support a vehicle by a jack alone),
ramps, or a nice steep hill and
parking with the nose of the car pointing up the hill.
- You’ll need to let the
car warm up so that the thermostat opens for the system to
vent in this method. AVOID BURNS AND PROTECT YOUR
EYES! - Never open the cooling system when
hot. Let the car warm up from cold with
the radiator cap removed. You may get some spillage while
the coolant expands and the air bubbles out. This coolant will be hot.
- Allow the engine to run,
with the heater on (fan can be off or on low) until the
thermostat opens and all the air is allowed to purge.
Once the thermostat opens you will see the coolant level
inside the radiator bubble and drop. Continue to add
antifreeze to maintain fluid level. Again be careful as
the coolant and any steam released by the system will be
hot. Once the upper radiator hose becomes hot to the
touch and no further air issues from the system carefully
replace the radiator cap and ensure the overflow bottle is
filled to the Max line.
- Continue to allow the car
to run to allow the temperature to stabilize. If you
don’t have a temperature gauge allow the car to run until
the fan cycles on and off at least once. During this time
ensure there are no leaks from the system and that the
upper radiator hose gets hot to the touch (especially
close to the radiator). If not then allow the system to
cool, and repeat the steps above to purge any remaining
air.
NOTE: If you are not comfortable leaving the radiator
cap off during warm-up then you can accomplish the same
thing by leaving the radiator cap on and allowing the car to
cool down after step four and then repeat steps one through
four again, making sure the overflow bottle is maintained
full. The heating and cooling cycle will push the air out
through the overflow bottle and then suck coolant in to
replace the air when the engine cools. The car must remain
inclined for the whole procedure.
When should I check my cooling system
The best time to inspect your heater
and radiator hoses is cooler weather. Less obvious
signs of decay can be seen and felt by grabbing hold of a
cold radiator or heater hose and giving it a good squeeze.
Brittle or cracking material, a spongy feel, or a hose
sticking to the inside of itself are bad signs.
WHy is my car overheating?
There is no one answer for this
question but here is a list of places to start to isolate
the problem.
1.
Before you do anything else, tune up the car. Many
overheating cars are out of tune, running lean or with
retarded timing. A lean fuel mixture will overheat your car.
If your engine runs lean you can chase your tail looking for
problems in the cooling system and never figure it out. The
easy way to do this is richen your jetting a couple of
steps. If the overheating is better, you're on the right
track.
2.
There is a lot of misinformation about ignition
timing and cooling. Retarded timing contributes to
overheating. Advanced timing helps cooling. Advance your
initial timing a few degrees and see if it helps the car run
cooler. However, if you advance to much you risk detonation
and that too will cause you to overheat. If you start to
detonate back off the timing. Overheating cars should always
run vacuum advance. Vacuum advance helps cooling.
3. Radiators:
Your radiator is the primary means to bring the engine
temperature back to the optimal temperature. They can be dirty, clogged, poorly designed, too small for the engine, fin dsnsity too great for the low rpm airflow...you get the picture. We know al
little bit about radiators; visit The Brassworks FAQs page for more information.
4.
Airflow. Inadequate airflow can cause overheating. You have to get the air through your
radiator and out of the engine compartment. Obstructions to that airflow
can cause a cushion of hot air to build around your block
and engine compartment. A properly fit fan shroud sealed to
the radiator helps to channel the air through your radiator.
5.
Inadequate coolant flow. If your overheating at idle, stop and
go traffic, on grades or towing you might benefit from
higher flow rates through the radiator. Hi Flow water pumps
and hi flow thermostats allow more water to pass through the
radiator where it has a chance to cool.
6.
Modified
gear
ratios: Generally speaking lower ratios give slower
acceleration, higher top speed and less braking power –
Higher ratios give more acceleration, less top speed and
more braking power. Changing gear ratios may generate more
heat in the engine and potentially cause overheating.
7. Coolant composition. A 50/50 mixture does not help
cooling it raises the boiling point. Run 100% distilled
water with water pump lubricant or distilled water with
about 15-20 % antifreeze. Both cool better than 50/50 and
still lubricate the water pump to prevent corrosion in
system. When the weather cools return to 50/50.
8. Cooling the transmission is added work for a poorly
constructed radiator. Do not obstruct airflow or heat the
air by placing the cooler in front of the radiator where it
will overheat the cooling air. Transmission and engine oil
coolers constructed within the radiator can also tax your
cooling system. Using external coolers may help.
9. The elusive manifold vaccuum leak. Trouble at idle may point to a manifold vaccuum leak. If you find you're too fast an idle speed, rough idle or stalling, misfiring on acceleration or adjustments to your carburetor seem to have limited effect than you may have a vaccuum leak causing overheating.
10. Use a better grade of gas. If you are not running
premium fuel and experience overheating a higher grade may
help. If there is no improvement, try advancing your timing
a few degrees. A little extra octane will allow you a little
extra timing without getting into detonation. Earlier
engines were designed for better gas than is sold today.
11. Head gasket leaks from the cylinder to the water jacket are a definite cause of overheating. That's bad news and a whole lot of work.
12. A stuck thermostat. Many thermostats are designed to fail in the open position but thermostats have also been known to stick partially open and impeed coolant flow.
13. A slipping water pump belts can slow flow rates from the water pump and impeed coolant flow resulting in overheating.
14. A fan blade with insufficient blade count or incorrect pitch may not draw enough air resulting in overheating.
15. Headers without thermal coating can cause overheating.
16.
A stretched timing chain or belt can cause overheating.
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